Monday, March 31, 2014

Mate: Never Sleep Again


If I were to gloss over today's topic, I would not be a true student of Argentina. If there’s anything you need to know about this enormous, majestic country, it is this:

MATE

Contrary to its English connotation, "mate" has little to do with significant others (if only) and more to do with staying up until 3 am against your will.

Mate (pronounced “mah-tay”) is a traditional Argentine drink that is similar to, if not composed of, loose-leaf tea. I’m not really sure. It might just be leaves. (Obviously I didn’t do any extra research about this topic)
 
 
what a poser

It is drunk by much of the population, both with and without sugar added. Sometimes you’ll get made fun of if you drink it sweet (they’d probably let me fly under the radar since I’m a foreigner). Its flavor is—distinct. We’ll call it an acquired taste. As in, “I think I acquired something dead in my mouth when I drank that.” It is very, very bitter and high in caffeine (hence the trouble sleeping).

But a lot of people seem to really like it, so I’ve been trying to drink mate every couple days to Argentinize myself.

There is a science to preparing a mate. There IS a wrong way to do it, and my mission is to experientially find out every wrong way over the course of my stay. Not really. But that’s how it’s turning out.
 
Before we begin, here are a few definitions you may find helpful:
Mate—the container (often a hollowed-out gourd) the mate is drunk from
Mate—the name of the drink itself
Yerba Mate—the leaves that mate is made from.
DO YOU SEE WHY THIS IS CONFUSING
 
THE GRINGA’S GUIDE TO MATE MAKING
1. See that everyone else drinking mate, and think that maybe it’s a thing you should do.
 
 

Here are some sneaky pictures I took of other people’s mate cups to prove that it’s real
2. Locate a mate. Available in supermarkets.


Oh em gee, so cute

3. Find that there is almost an entire aisle dedicated to yerba mate in the local grocery store, and have multiple heart attacks because your math skills have degraded to the point where you can’t do basic division and think you’re going to pay eight dollars for a bag of leaves.

4. Rectify your mathematical inaccuracies and buy the yerba mate (it was like $2.50.)
 
       5. Try to bleach the mold out of your mate
6. Whoops, I’m skipping ahead of myself. DON’T FORGET THE BOMBILLA!
The bombilla (pronounced “bomb-bee-zhahhhhhhhhhhh” if you hold it out dramatically) is a metal straw-like apparatus that filters the yerba mate so that you get mostly liquid when you sip and not mostly planty bits. Make sure to put the bombilla in first.
 
 
I kind of apologize for being too lazy to wash off the bombilla first
7. Fill your mate with the yerba. Not ALL the way, but put a good amount in. For a smaller mate cup, you might want to use two medium-sized hamsters worth of yerba. If you don’t have a hamster to compare against, a small bird will also work. Try to get one that looks kind of healthy.
 
 
8. Insert an unnecessary step.
 
9. Boil some water.
 
10. WAIT! Were you going to USE the water you just boiled??? Because THAT, my friend, is where you are going wrong. No wonder your mate always tastes so bad. Nope, add cool water to the boiling water until it lowers to about 80 degrees celsius. In Farenheit, for you Americans, that’s “pretty hot.”
 
11. If you chose the red door, go to page 53. If you chose the green door, continue on to the next page.
 
12. If you decide to go the wussy route and take your mate sweet(ish), dump a bunch of sugar in on top of the yerba.
 
13. Pour the water over the yerba mate. The yerba is very dense, so you might have to agitate the bombilla a little bit to help it settle (“Hey bombilla, the professor moved up the due date for our term papers to today!!! ...JUST KIDDINGGGGG!!!”) (“Hey bombilla, we’re totally gonna give you a SWIRLY after class! Look forward to it!”)
 
14. Enjoy your first mate!
 
 
Other informational thingzzz about mate
You may notice that in some pictures I am holding a bright green lump of something. That is my new mate. My first one got moldy through, uh, no fault of my own, and bleach couldn’t save it. So I bought one made of silicone. PLASTIC FTW
Mate is so popular that some people carry around a thermos containing hot water so they can refill their mate cup on the go. At the zoo there was a machine which, for two pesos, would refill your thermos.

 





Mate is traditionally a communal drink. My dad and my brother would hate this, because they are weird about food and don’t like their mashed potatoes to touch their dessert. By “communal” I mean that the owner of the mate cup will have brought a thermos of water and will offer a drink to each friend. It is traditional to drink the entire cup of mate, NOT JUST A SIP, before handing it back to the owner to be refilled. Sometimes the cup will have gone through five or six people before it reaches you, in which case you literally have to suck it up.

Mate, unlike your average tea leaves, does not lose its potency after one or two uses. The same batch of yerba can be used multiple times before being discarded. It is common knowledge that the first mate will taste the most sour, as the yerba has had less chance to settle. Later mates are described as “lavado” (washed) because most of the smaller yerba particles have sifted down to the bottom of the cup, where they resign themselves to a life of hopelessness and denigration by the rest of the yerba.

Now that you know the basic science and some of the most common pitfalls of the mate-making process, feel free to go out and apply these principles to the real world, where you will most likely be unable to find any of the supplies I mentioned above (except maybe sugar and a small bird) and have to resign yourself to a life of hopelessness and denigration by the rest of the yerba. I mean your peers.
YAAAAAAAAAY




Monday, March 24, 2014

Where's your Grammar? In the Kitchen

Time to address a very important aspect of Argentine culture:

THE WEIRD "SH" SOUND
 
In your average Spanish-speaking country, double "l's" are pronounced like "y's." A well-known example is the nearly-Americanized word "quesadilla." We don't say "kay-suh-dill-uh" now do we? No, we fight our impulses and our phonics training to order "kay-suh-dee-yahs" at Chipotle instead of sounding like culture-ignorant monsters.
 
However, in Argentina you might have to RE-retrain your brain, for here in this vast land neither the usually-correct pronunciation of the"y" nor the "ll" will get you a quesadilla. (Okay, it will, but they'll correct you and also maybe make weird, skeptical gestures at you with their eyebrows) (OKAY, they probably won't insult you with their eyebrows. But they'll know you're a foreigner.) (Let's be real: they'll know you're a foreiger anyway)
 
So forget EVERYTHING YOU EVER KNEW about Spanish! But only the pronunciation of those two letters!
 
 
Say the word "dungeon." Feel how that soft "g" sounds as it rolls off your tongue. Isolate it. "Juh." "Juh." "Juh." Welcome it like you would welcome a friend who brought pizza to your apartment, or who offers to drive you places that are too far for your wussy little feet to carry you.
 
Now take that soft "g" sound and stick it in front of the letter "o." It should sound more or less like one of the following:
 
jo
sho
zho
Bethany is a hottie-mcbodypants
djoh
 
Yaaaaay! You have succeeded in forcing your mouth to adapt itself to a new accent! Now you can forget everything we just did, because you will most likely never be in a situation that requires you to say the Spanish word for "I," and ONLY THAT WORD, to an Argentine.
 
Because I like to embed things, here are two videos that will unnecessarily re-emphasize everything I just said:
 
This is a typical Spanish accent, as spoken by a gringa.
Who can spot the grammatical error?
 
This is an Argentine accent, as spoken by some awesome mystery person.
There is actually very little exaggeration in this video.
 
On a vaguely related topic, but mostly because I just REALLY like to embed things, I have pronounced for you some of the more interesting street names we have enountered.
 
 
 
Hipólito Yrigoyen
 
The first few times I heard this, I was pretty sure I was never going to be able to say it. Which is unfortunate, because most of my classes are on this street and it would be useful to be able to say "HELP I was going to Hipólito Yrigoyen and I accidentally wound up in the red light district!" (Coincidentally, if you haven't been reading Rachel's blog, catch up on that) But I finally mastered it:
 
Uriburu
 
Whoever named this street deserves, like, a chocolate or something.
 
Azcuénaga
and finally,
Pueyrredón
 
This concludes one more informational lesson from The Girl Who Probably Shouldn't Be Teaching Anyone Anything Except About Which Flavor of Ramen Noodle is the Best (Indubitably Beef)


For Grace, or "The Koi with the Human Eyeball"

An Open Letter to my baby sis:

Hi Grace! Hope stuff is going well at home. Heard you're doing makeup for the school play-- you're on your way to starting your career already! (You're maybe doing better than I am, heh heh)


Ah, there you are, you little goon
 
Remember that little purple doll you sewed for me? Whenever I leave home I take it with me-- to Costa Rica, to college, and now to Argentina.

Bet you didn't know I still had it!
 
Also I want you to see that I'm still wearing our friendship bracelet!!
 
Well, I took that little doll with me the other day when Rachel and I went to the Buenos Aires zoo. And let me tell you IT WAS SO COOL (although mayyyybe not quite as cool as that zoo where you can feed the giraffes) and I took some pictures of the doll with the animals. (It's not in all the pictures, though.)
 
When we walked in, one of the first things we noticed is that there are just these ANIMALS walking around.... CHILLING wherever they feel like it. They look like a cross between a goat and a rabbit, sorta:
 

Maybe with some guinea pig thrown in
 
Apparently they're called "Patagonian Maras." Which makes sense, because Patagonia is a southern province here in Argentina.
 
Our first stop within the zoo was the reptile house, but I didn't take any pictures of the doll there because I figured snakes probably aren't your favorite thing. The most interesting creature in that dark cave-of-a-building was:
 

Ew
 
It woke up and started slithering around a little, and it was a teeny tad bit scary. It looked super muscular. I can't remember if Kaa from the Jungle Book is supposed to be a boa constrictor or not... remember his weird swirly rainbow eyes when he tried to hypnotize somebody? (You've seen the Jungle Book, right? RIGHT????)
 
Rachel's favorite thing at the zoo was probably the elephant. She thought it genuinely looked friendly. It was really cool because it would use its trunk to scrape dust into a pile, then pick up the dust and toss it all over its wrinkly back. I was amazed that it could grab something as fine as DUST without having FINGERS.
 

 
 
I was like an animal paparazzi.

Leopard is Too Cool for School

"Please, no pictures."
 
Breaking news: Macaws "Just want to be alone"


"Honey, tell them to go away."
 
CELEBRITY CRIME: Rhinos double-parked!
 

Bwaha, butts.
 
Horriying koi has one human eyeball!


 
AAAAAH
 
And Introducing for the First Time:
VIDEO!
 
I really liked the seals. Someone bought fish to toss to them, and they just went BUCK WILD. (P.S. all those shrill shrieks in the background? Those were produced by, uh, someone else. Heh heh.)
 
I also liked the meerkats



LOOK HE'S DOING THE MEERKAT THING
 
And last but not least, I took pictures of this buffalo's head. Based on its hair, I think it must be a Joseph.
 
 
I took many more pictures, but this is a lot so I'll be done for now. Love you, Punky! Rock that makeup bidness!
 


Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Now With 17% More Culture!

As I didn't do anything too exciting this week, this post will be a delightful little lesson in Argentine culture, given by a person who probably doesn't know much more about it than you. I also did a little photo-scavenger-hunt to supplement these lessons with pictures, so soak in the glorious colors (soak 'em in good, I TOOK THESE SPECIFICALLY FOR YOU. YES, YOU.).

Lesson 1: Sidewalk washing.

If one wakes up early enough (7 am, haha) and goes a-gallivanting through the urban streets of La Recoleta (my neighborhood), he or she will come across a unique phenomenon. Each morning, out of dozens of buildings, pops many a little old man with a broom-like squeegee who goes to work washing the sidewalk.

I have never seen this before. Does the sidewalk really get THAT dirty during the day? I mean, they don't just SWEEP, they take hoses and rags and CLEAN the suckers. It's quite normal to walk down the street and pass two or three squeegee-ers per block. (They are very courteous and turn their hoses aside when we walk by.)

I got out too late today and missed most of the washers...
 
Here is a bonus picture of a man sweeping a tree


One attribute of the ground that aids in its washing is that the sidewalk is composed almost entirely of tile. Very often the pattern and texture of this tile changes completely from storefront to storefront. My guess is that the sidewalk in front of each store is not maintained by the government, as in the U.S., but belongs to the property owner. For this reason, walking down the street is like skipping delightedly across a patchwork quilt dotted with dog doo-doo (maybe that's why they wash it every day.)



Really I just want to make you look at pictures of my shoes

Lesson 2: Platform Shoes.
 
Speaking of shoes, let me tell you about this one thing that I thought went out with shag carpets and mustard-yellow-rust-orange-olive-green color schemes: DISCO SHOES! In my imagination, only people with shiny silver jumpsuits and poofy afros wear platform shoes. This is, contrary to popular U.S. belief, not the case. Platforms are SO, SO popular here. I did a sneaky photo shoot where I tried to take pictures of pedestrians' feet as they walked by me, and I was at no loss for photographic material. I repeat, PLATFORMS ARE REALLY, REALLY COOL HERE. For your enjoyment, the results of my endeavors:
 





 
 
 Guys can you BELIEVE National Geographic turned down these pics???
 
And the THIRD lesson for the day is:
 
Lesson 3: English Rocks.
 
In some Latin American countries it is Not Awesome to be from the U.S. In Argentina, it is "top." English words are used in advertisements where Spanish would function just as well or better, because it's cooler. Some English words have been completely assimilated into the language here; for example, "delivery." Even though it is zero percent a Spanish word, if someone wants takeout they would say "Voy a pedir delivery" instead of using the ACTUAL Spanish word for takeout. (Let's practice our Spanish accents: say "day-leev-air-ee." Congratulations. You just spoke Spanish.)
 
Out of simple amusement, I'm going to quickly go over several other English words that are commonly used in Spanish and provide their respective pronunciations:
 
T-Shirt ("tee-shairt")
Burger King ("Boor-gair keeng")
Mall ("mole")
 
I can't think of more right now. But IF I DO I WILL KEEP YOU UPDATED.
 
Some pics to support my research:

Not a Spanish word. I kind of wish it wasn't a word at all... IT'S CREEPY

 Not a Spanish word.
 
 I guess "&" might be bilingual.
 

Teaconnection= strictly speaking, not a word at all. I will just assume there is an imaginary space in there.

"Triple"= Spanish.
"Italiano"= Spanish.
Why pick "bacon" to stay "bacon?"
 
ANSWER: BECAUSE IT'S AWESOME
 
 
BONUS PICS
I.... I...... me quedo callada, las palabras no me salen

 Also we visited Diagon Alley FO REALZZZ
 
A little reunion with some students and workers from the foreign exchange department. We were provided with a lovely supper. I ate altogether too much, and was rewarded several hours afterwards with an unexpected bout of diarrhea. TAKE THAT, McDONALDS BATHROOM
 
 Meditate on this photo
 
 
Now you are17% more cultured. YOU ARE WELCOME.